Sri Lanka, often dubbed the Pearl of the Indian Ocean or the Land of Serendip, was once one of Asia’s best-kept secrets but is fast becoming a tropical paradise for keen travellers – a stark contrast to when I visited the island 15 years ago, when there was just a smattering of beach huts dotted around the coast. Today, the island still exudes its special kind of magic, albeit in a more chic and refined way.
Enjoying a cold bottle of Lion beer on the beach at sunset is perfection, but Sri Lanka’s burgeoning bar scene is adding another layer to the country’s appeal, showcasing innovative cocktails, local ingredients, and a fresh take on hospitality that reflects the spirit and soul of its people.
Sri Lanka, like many far-flung destinations, struggles with sourcing products that most bars in The World’s 50 Best list would never think twice about ordering. Products like wine, champagne or speciality spirits carry a huge mark-up, making it impossible to use and serve to the local community. Locality is key, using what is in front of them, growing ingredients in their gardens and championing local products. Resourcefulness plays a lot into this, the unspoken mantra is that through limitation comes creativity.
Many bars have developed their own ice programme – a simple but effective format. They’ve considered how quickly ice melts in the warmer climate and adjusted their drinks to reflect this. Working with local farmers, tea producers have created an incredible transparent eco chain around the country championing the farm-to-table concept in a new way. This excitement around bartending and hospitality is forging new opportunities for the island in a way that has not been seen before.
Leading the change is the team behind Smoke & Bitters, pioneering the island into the global bar scene since its opening five years ago. Now with another bar, Raa, which specialises in the country’s local beverages Toddy and Arrack, childhood friends Don Ranasinghe and Lahiru Perera are not only creating a new generation of ‘hospitalitarians’, they are growing their community from the producers, farmers and families of the workers. Their impact on the community has led to visits from the president of Sri Lanka and members of the royal family while a full bar and restaurant every night is bringing a financial benefit to the same community.
On the popular south coast in a small surfing town called Weligama is Kaiyo, a bar and restaurant that celebrates Sri Lanka’s rich culinary heritage. Its mission is to craft an unforgettable farm-to-table dining experience that honours local flavours mixed with modern potential. The latest menu, headed up by bar manager Alexandra Kharitonkina, is inspired by the different provinces of Sri Lanka, serving a truly diverse selection of drinks and a string selection of non-alcoholic cocktails.
The highlight was the Watalappam, inspired by one of the most popular Sri Lankan desserts. This stirred-down drink combines Ceylon spices, jaggery and homemade cardamom bitters with cascara vermouth and Ceylon arrack washed with di kiri coconuts and garnished with homemade chocolate. Kharitonkina and her team curate the perfect balance of relaxed yet engaging moments with the staff in a minimalistic and chic environment.
Landmark hotel
In the Galle Fort Hotel is another striving bar, Ropewalk. The hotel is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the country’s most recognisable landmarks. Built initially by the Portuguese in 1588 and later extensively fortified by the Dutch in the 17th century. The beverage programme is headed up by group head of bars Nabeel Kenny, who created the first speciality arrack bar in Sri Lanka. The bar sells a great selection of food including Feasts of Ceylon, a menu inspired by Sri Lanka’s diverse worldly food scene. The Gun Powder cocktail, akin to a Margarita, is a fiery combination of chilli, cucumber & lemongrass-infused Paradise White Arrack, lime oleo saccharam, ginger ale and Sri Lankan spice powder rim.
In Ahangama is Trax, which takes its name from the bustling railway tracks used by tourists and surfers looking for the undisturbed beaches of the island. By day, it’s a tranquil café set within a lush tropical garden and as night falls it transforms into Ahangama’s liveliest venue.
The dimly lit cocktail bar comes alive with local and international DJ sets and disco nights. The drinks menu is a refined showcase of seasonal island flavours, with one drink combining arrack, cherimoya, black mustard seeds, citrus, moringa and whey.
The Doctor’s House has been a staple of the party scene since its opening. Known for its energetic vibe it is a bar, restaurant and hotel all in one. The venue itself is housed in an old Dutch Hospital which was beautifully restored into a chic location with a great bar and restaurant with stunning views. The rooftop bar, The Upstairs, also offers a great cocktail list, tapas menu and a laid-back vibe.
Heading to the capital city, Colombo, it is a growing hub of new hotels and businesses presiding over the ocean. Ministry of Crab is one of the first venues that got people talking about the food and drink scene in Sri Lanka. Owned by a trio of Sri Lankans, including celebrated chef Dharshan Munidasa, the venue has featured in previous editions of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Munidasa’s support of the hospitality scene is unrivalled and he’s a big supporter of many other new business owners.
Uncle’s Colombo is one of the capital’s best bars, located down a street that gives off a Soho feel. The staff are fun, friendly, welcoming and drinks flow out in quick succession. There is seating outside for early evening drinks, however the best seat in the house is at the end of the bar so you can watch the night unfold in its entirety. The cocktail Dudley Please is a blend of arrack, spiced pineapple, orange and dark chocolate.
The final place that deserves a mention is the Grande Dame of Sri Lanka – The Galle Face Hotel. Opened in 1864, it is a nod to both Sri Lanka’s colonial past and its independent present. It plays host to several bars including Firebeach, Travellers’ Bar and The Verandah which is highly recommended for enjoying a drink at sunset.
Every night on the veranda, as the sun sets, a quiet moment descends on the hotel as it begins the daily ritual of the lowering of the Sri Lankan flag. It is carried out to the sound of bagpipes playing, as piper and hotel staff members walk towards the sea to lower the flag. This has been a tradition for over a century and in terms of drinks you can expect typical beach-side cocktails, fresh fruit Frozen Daiquiris, a house Kithul Rum Punch and a Cucumber Mule.
There is an underlying energy of excitement in Sri Lanka. The passion, care and love of the bartenders to make a difference and have an impact is inspiring. The community’s strong and collaborative efforts to give the island a platform on the world stage does not go unnoticed, but the key to all of this is the heart and soul of those behind each and every cocktail.
